Orang-utans!!

Orang-utans, orang-utans, orang-utans!  Since we started planning this trip, I have been a little bit obsessed with seeing orang-utans in the wild.  In fact, it was pretty much the only thing I wanted to do in Indonesia.  I have since discovered there is much to do and see in Indonesia.  But I was still extremely excited to make our way to Gunung Leuser National Park.

Gunung Leuser National Park—in North Sumatra—is one of the few accessible places in the world where seeing wild orang-utans is possible.  In the 1970s, an orang-utan rehabilitation centre was set up to reintegrate orang-utans who had been kept illegally as pets or displaced by illegal logging back into the jungle.  The centre was closed in the 1990s as the national park had reached its capacity in terms of how many orang-utans it could support.  However, park rangers still provide supplementary feeding of bananas and milk two times a day at the feeding platform for any orang-utan who wants to come.

We arrived in Bukit Lawang at the edge of Gunung Leuder National Park on the afternoon of the 31st and got ourselves set up at Bukit Lawang Indah Guest House—a basic but clean guest house with a restaurant serving really great food at a low cost.  The next morning we set off early to get our park entrance permits and head to the feeding platform for the 8:30am feeding.

When we arrived at the platform there were no orang-utans in sight.  The ranger banged on the platform with a hammer to let them know we were there.  The next minute, branches moved high in the canopy above.  Flashes of orange soon followed and finally two orang-utans made their way down to the platform to feast on bananas and milk.  It was incredible to see them up so close and to observe their many human like traits and their amazing ability to climb and swing through the trees using all four limbs.

Reluctantly after about an hour we had to leave.  Park policy restricts the length of contact with humans—this encourages the orang-utans to be as wild as possible whilst still ensuring they have adequate nutrition.

The rest of the day we explored the village.  We spoke with different guides about booking a trek into the jungle to see the orang-utans in a more natural state.  We finally decided on a one day trek for the next day with the option of rafting back down the river at the end of the day.  Our guide’s name was Leng.

The next morning, we were joined on our trek by two English girls from Manchester and their guide as well as a young trainee guide.  This meant that one or two of the guides could go off ahead scouting for animals while the other led us through the jungle.

The walk started off fairly easy.  Within the first hour we had seen two orang-utans swinging high in the trees; however there were a lot of other groups around and it was difficult to get a great vantage point.  It also seemed there were some unscrupulous tactics going on with some of the other guides—luring the orang-utans away with bananas so their group could get a better view.  These types of tactics are not allowed, but unfortunately with an economy so dependent on the tourist dollar are bound to happen.

We then headed a bit more off the beaten track and had the pleasure of seeing one of the largest males up fairly close.  Weighing in at about 90kg and seven times stronger than a human, he was a magnificent sight.  He was accompanied by a much younger male who was very curious—and more than happy to come right up close and pose for photos.  They bored of us before we bored of them, so off they headed back into the tree tops.

We also encounter a moon snake sleeping on a branch and a Thomas leaf monkey who allowed us right up close.  We glimpsed white gibbons high in the trees.  And I was the only one lucky enough to have a close encounter with a leech!

By late afternoon we were feeling pretty weary from the steep climbs and slippery descents.  We were happy to get to the river where we swam in the refreshing water before jumping aboard large tyre tubes tied together to raft all the way back to our accommodation in Bukit Lawang.

I was tired but elated at the end of the day.  Seeing orang-utans in the wild was probably a once in a lifetime experience and one that we will never forget.  I think the most amazing part is just how human like they are.  You really get a sense that we aren’t all that much different...

The next day (the 4 year anniversary of the day we met) was spent enjoying the peacefulness of the village and avoiding the rain which came frequently and heavily. We toasted our anniversary with a beer at the Jungle Boarder Bar and watched the river rush by.

The next morning we jumped on the bus to Medan. We will spend the day in Medan today before flying to Kuala Lumpur tonight to begin our Malaysian adventure.

Love to everyone, all emails and comments greatly appreciated

xxxx